A curbless shower is one of the most popular things people ask us about right now in Loveland, and it usually starts the same way. Someone’s planning to stay in the home they love, they’ve noticed the little step over the shower curb is getting harder on the knees, and they want a bathroom that still looks beautiful but works for the next twenty years. That’s exactly the kind of project we do best.
We’ve spent about 27 years in this trade. This post walks through what a curbless shower actually is, how we build one so it doesn’t leak, what it costs around Cincinnati, and whether it’s the right call for your bathroom. We’ll be straight with you the whole way through.
What Is a Curbless Shower?
A curbless shower (also called a zero-entry, zero-degree, or zero-threshold shower) is a shower with no raised lip to step over. The bathroom floor flows straight into the shower floor on the same plane, and the water is managed by a gentle slope toward the drain instead of a dam at the door.
Compare that to a traditional shower, where a 4 to 6 inch tile curb holds the water in. Take the curb away and everything about the way the floor is built, sloped, and waterproofed has to change. That’s the part homeowners don’t always see, and it’s the part that separates a curbless shower that lasts from one that turns into a callback.
Aging-in-Place: Why Loveland Homeowners Want a Curbless Shower
Most of our curbless jobs come from people near or past retirement who plan to stay put. That’s the heart of good aging-in-place bathroom design. No curb means nothing to trip on, easy access for a walker or wheelchair, and room to bring in a bench or fold-down seat. A curbless entry pairs naturally with wider doorways, grab bars set into blocking behind the tile, and a handheld fixture on a slide bar.
Here’s the thing people love: it doesn’t have to look like a hospital. One of our favorite recent projects was a small primary bath here in the area. The homeowner wanted more room, so we moved a wall to enlarge the shower, pulled out an old freestanding Jacuzzi tub nobody used, and built a zero-degree entry shower with all-new tile, a new vanity, quartz countertops, new lighting, and all-new plumbing. It was a from-scratch rebuild, and it reads as a spa, not an accessibility retrofit. That client made her selections with our designer, followed the process, left us a great review, and now sends her neighbors our way.
How a Curbless Shower Works (The Construction That Matters)
This is where experience earns its keep. A curbless shower lives or dies on the floor build, the slope, and the waterproofing. We follow correct building science on every one of these, and here’s what that means in plain terms.
Floor Slope and Drainage
The shower floor needs enough pitch to move water to the drain but not so much that it feels like a ramp. The standard is about a quarter inch of fall per foot, roughly a 2 percent slope, toward the drain. On a curbless layout we usually recess or drop the subfloor slightly in the shower zone so the finished tile sits flush with the bathroom floor and still carries that slope. Sometimes that means adjusting the framing between the joists, which is exactly why this is not a weekend swap.
Linear Drains vs. Center Drains
A traditional center (point) drain needs the floor to pitch from four directions, which forces smaller mosaic tile so the tile can bend around that cone shape. A linear drain sits along one wall or at the shower entry and only needs the floor to slope in a single plane. That lets us use larger tile in the shower (even the same big-format tile as the bathroom floor) for a cleaner, more continuous look. Sometimes lineal drains are not the best option depending on the shower floor framing. We counsel our clients in which drain is best for their particular shower set up.
Waterproofing a Curbless Shower
Without a curb, waterproofing is everything, because there’s no dam backing water up. We build the wet area with either concrete board or the Wedi system, a foam board that’s waterproof all the way through, then seal every seam, corner, and the drain flange so water has nowhere to go but down the drain. During prep we also strengthen the shower floor and framing and fix any mold or mildew we find behind the old work. On a bathroom remodel we spend roughly a week to ten days on this prep before a single cabinet or piece of finish tile goes in. Homeowners are always surprised by how much happens before the pretty part.
Cost of a Curbless Shower in the Cincinnati Area
A zero-degree entry shower is one of the biggest cost drivers in a bathroom remodel, right alongside heated floors and changing the room’s footprint. That’s because of the extra framing, the recessed floor build, and the waterproofing detail described above. It’s more labor and more precision than a standard curbed shower.
For context on where a curbless shower usually lives, here are the honest ranges we quote around Loveland: a bathroom refresh runs $20,000 to $40,000, a full primary bath rebuild (the category most curbless showers fall into) runs $50,000 to $70,000, and high-end work runs $70,000 and up. Most master baths land between $40,000 and $80,000, with more pushing past $80,000 than sitting near the bottom.
We won’t pretend that’s cheap, and we don’t ever argue with someone who says it’s expensive. Everything costs more than it used to. To get something custom, at the highest quality, it does cost. Our craftsmen aren’t new out of school, they’re highly skilled and experienced, and we pay them well because our clients want experienced people in their home. We don’t run a fancy showroom or a fancy lifestyle. We put the investment into the team and the materials.
Curbless vs. Traditional Shower
- Access: Curbless wins for walkers, wheelchairs, and anyone tired of stepping over a lip. A traditional curb is a trip hazard as mobility changes.
- Look: Curbless gives you that open, continuous floor and modern spa feel. Larger tile can run straight through with a linear drain.
- Cleaning: No curb means no grout lines on a ledge to scrub, and a squeegee glides right off the glass.
- Cost: Curbless costs more up front because of the floor build and waterproofing.
- Water control: A curbed shower is more forgiving of a sloppy install. Curbless demands correct slope and waterproofing to keep water where it belongs, which is why the contractor matters more here than almost anywhere else in the bathroom.
Small Bathroom? Curbless Can Actually Help
In a tight bathroom, removing the curb and the shower glass frame makes the whole room feel bigger because the eye reads one continuous floor instead of a chopped-up space. A single fixed glass panel or a true open wet-room layout (no door at all) can open things up further. Running the same tile from the vanity into the shower is the trick that makes a small primary bath feel like it grew, even when the walls didn’t move.
Common Mistakes We See
Not enough slope, so water pools and sits. Too much slope, so it feels like standing on a hill. Skipping proper blocking for future grab bars. And the big one, cutting corners on waterproofing to save a day. When someone calls us after a cheaper crew’s curbless shower failed, it’s almost always the waterproofing or the drain flange seal. Water finds every shortcut.
Our Process, Start to Finish
It starts with a free in-person consultation. We’ll always meet someone at no cost. Then we do photos and measurements, listen to what you actually want, and build a 3D rendering. We won’t give an estimate without one. You’re not signing a napkin with some words on it. You’ll see the finished bathroom before we build it. Our designer helps you make selections, and because we’re boutique, we take you around the city to find exactly what you want instead of limiting you to a showroom shelf.
When we start on a Monday, we’re there Monday through Friday, 8:30 to 5, until it’s done, usually about four weeks. There’s not a day when nothing’s happening in your bathroom. We’re not waiting on another trade and we’re not waiting on materials, because we selected everything with you months before. Kitchens and baths are 100% in-house, our own crews, not a rotating cast of subs. And you’ll notice we contain the dust and vacuum at the end of every day. Clients tell us all the time that we’re the cleanest contractors who’ve been in their home.
Service Area
We’re based at 224 Whirlaway Terrace in Loveland and work throughout the east-side corridor: Loveland, Montgomery, Mason, Hyde Park, Madeira, and Indian Hill, out to West Chester and Mount Lookout. If you’re planning to stay in your home and want it to work better for the long haul, that’s our sweet spot.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a curbless shower a good idea?
Yes, for most people who plan to stay in their home, a curbless shower is a great idea, because it removes a trip hazard, works with a walker or wheelchair, cleans easily, and looks modern. The only real catch is that it must be built and waterproofed correctly, so it’s not a good DIY or budget-crew project.
How do you keep water in a curbless shower?
Water stays put through a properly sloped floor (about a quarter inch of fall per foot toward the drain) combined with a fully sealed waterproofing system behind the tile. We use concrete board or the Wedi system and seal every seam and the drain flange, and a linear drain plus a well-placed glass panel keeps spray contained without needing a curb.
Is a curbless shower more expensive?
Yes, a curbless shower typically costs more than a standard curbed shower because it requires extra framing, a recessed and sloped floor build, and more detailed waterproofing. It’s one of the top three cost drivers in a bathroom remodel, along with heated floors and moving the room’s footprint.
How much slope is needed for a curbless shower?
About a quarter inch of fall per foot, roughly a 2 percent slope, toward the drain is the standard for a curbless shower. A linear drain lets that slope run in one clean plane so you can use larger tile, while a center drain needs the floor pitched from all four sides.
Ready to Talk About Your Bathroom?
If you’re thinking about a curbless or zero-entry shower in Loveland, Montgomery, Mason, Madeira, or the surrounding communities, let’s talk it through. We’re insured and bonded with a $2M liability policy always in force, we back our work with a 1-year labor warranty, and we’re a multi-year Best of Houzz winner. Call TMC Construction Services at (513) 781-3000 or reach us at team@tmcbuild.com to set up your free in-person consultation. We’d love to help you love your home again.

